#20b Departure - Panama

We spent the last weekend at Isla Tobago (about 7 miles away). We are now back in Panama doing our final preparations before we leave on Thursday (fresh foods, laundry, clearing out, top up fuel etc.). The spares from Autoprop finally arrived.

There is very little wind at the moment and just the occasional thunder storm when the heavens open for a short while.

We expect to head for the islands of Los Perlas about 40 miles away. After a few days we'll head off for Galapagos. We'll do our best to update our position daily.

#20a Panama departure delay

Our departure from Panama will be delayed until the end of next week. We have decided to get the new bearings for our Autoprop and refit it before we head across the Pacific.

#20 Panama

We will be leaving Panama on Friday, weather permitting. Our first trip will be about 40nm to the Los Perlas Islands and then the almost 900nm to Galapagos. Then it is the big one, called the “Puddle Jump”, to the Marquesas (3000Nm)!
Los Perlas to Galapagos will take about 8 – 12 days. We’ll try to update our position daily if condition permit.

#19 Chagres River Tour

On Monday 8th March we set off with a number of fellow cruisers for a trip to an Indian village about 20 miles inside the jungle along the Chagres River. This is the home of the Embera Drua tribe one of the seven native Indian tribes that survived the Spanish. They survived because they were in an area so inaccessible to the invaders.

We met at the Balboa Yacht Club at 0730 and various cars were used get us to the Chagres river National Park by 0900. From here on the only way to the village is by native dugout boats. The village is only accessible during the dry season (about 4 months per year). Some miles up the river we stopped at a fork in the river and then had a 30 minute hike to some beautiful waterfalls. The jungle and river were spectacular. Nani enjoyed a swim at the falls along with some other cruisers.
We hiked back to the fork in the river and again joined the dugout. Another boat had come to assist as the water was very shallow with fast currents further up the river and they needed to share the load. About 1100 we arrived at the village. The Indians were all in their traditional dress (or almost undress!). They were very friendly and full of smiles. We were shown around the village and the handicrafts they produce in the wet season.

Each family is very proud of their crafts and this is the only way they have to make money. They also demonstrated how they made their crafts before treating us to lunch. We purchased a carving of a toucan.

After lunch they took us to the garden in the jungle where they grow special plants for medicine. The guide for this was in his seventies but certainly didn’t look that old. He explained how they used each plant. Even the Indians have their own form of Viagra!
We returned to the village to music and dancing and before we knew it was time to leave. Back in the dugouts we hurtled down the river along with the current and back to the pickup point. Then it was back to the Balboa Yacht Club for a well earned beer. We had enjoyed a wonderful day with the Embera Drua tribe. It was, for us, a real surprise and is one of the highlights of our trip so far.

#18 Panama Canal Transit

On 28th February we set off for the Flats, Colon for advisor pick up. Our crew was Mike (Aurora B), Peter (Innforapenny) and Bill & Susan (from Canada). The advisor was due at 1715 but arrived at 1800hrs. We motored towards the first set of three locks at Gatun with darkness falling, lots of wind and lots of ships. Once near the first lock we had to raft up with two other boats. This was an amazing comedy as the advisors on each boat gave conflicting commands. There was lots of shouting and then it rained. The advisors almost sent us aground. Not a good start! The rafted boats had to follow a large ship into the lock but as we were about to enter the lock they closed the swing bridge right in front of us for an ambulance. We had to turn around and wait for it to reopen. All this in 25kn of wind and the odd rain squall. After the swing bridge was reopened we headed back to the lock and tied up behind the ship. The lock gates closed and the water began to rise. There was lots of strain on the lines and lots of shouting. Once the lock was filled the front gates opened and the big ship in front of us put his engines ahead. The turbulence it created was so great that a stern line on Serendipity (the outside boat to starboard) broke. This sent us all hurtling forward and towards the left lock wall. We had to ease our stern line and there was incredible force on this. We thought our cleats and winch would be ripped off. The lock line handlers were very quick to get another line to Serendipity and it was quickly secured. We came within inches of major damage. We broke a winch handle and Nani strain her hand (we thought initially that she’d broken her thumb!). This was only the first lock and there were two more to go!
Once the boats were secured and settled we eased lines and motored into the next lock. Again there was lots of counter commands from the advisors but we got in OK and secured the lines. It rained again. Once the water level was raised again the big ship took off but made less turbulence this time. We settled the boats down and then it was time for us to move to the final up lock.
The third lock went well and after we cleared out of it we untied the raft of boats and headed towards the mooring area in Gatun Lake. As we neared the mooring area it poured down with rain. We anchored about 2200 hrs and the advisors were collected via pilot launches. We were now ready for a beer! Nani cooked dinner of steak and salad. We all hit the sack about midnight.
The advisors were due at 0630 in the morning. Ours (George) arrived late and we raised anchor at 0720hrs and commenced the 27 mile trip to the first set of the down locks. We needed to motor at about 7kn to get to the lock on time and we furled out the head sail to assist us. This was a nice run with a good breeze and no rain. Nani cooked us all breakfast of eggs, bacon, mushrooms & tomato whilst we were underway.

We arrived at the locks on time and rafted up with Serendipity to go through the locks. The down locks are much easier than the up locks. We went through these locks without incident and when the final lock gates opened we motored into the Pacific.

We arrived at the anchorage about 1500hrs and again a well earned beer and champagne cocktails. Liz (Aurora B) and Penny (Innforapenny) joined us for the celebrations.

#17c Shelter bay (Panama)

On the 9th February we left Portobelo for Shelter Bay Marina at Colon, Panama. We had a lovely sail in 10 -15kn northerly winds. As we neared the entrance there were ships everywhere. We arrived early afternoon.

Once in Shelter Bay Marina it was time to work. Firstly it was time to give the boat a thorough fresh water wash as we had only had a few light rain showers over the last 6 months. Then we needed to get the boat hauled out for antifouling and to investigate a vibration problem from the propeller. Also the topsides needed a good polish. We also helped Aurora B and innforappeny go through the Panama Canal as line handlers.

Once the boat was hauled we found that the bearings were shot on our Autoprop. We emailed the manufacturer for replacements and sent several follow-ups but it took them a week to respond. This was too late to get the parts before we were to go back in the water. We replaced the Aurtoprop with the boat’s original fixed 3 blade prop.
The area around Shelter Bay was mostly jungle and we saw white face monkeys, howling monkeys and anteaters.

We went shopping for the trip across the Pacific and spent almost US$800! This didn’t include our frozen or fresh foods which we’ll buy before we leave.

#17b Portobelo

We had an easy sail to Portobelo the next day (8th Feb). This town was once a famous gold shipping port for the Spanish. It was sacked by Henry Morgan and Francis Drake before the Spanish decided it was too difficult to defend. It is now a small very poor town with remnants of forts etc.

#17a San Blas to Isla Linton

On Sunday 7th February said farwell to the San Blas and set sail at 0700 for the 45nm trip to Isla Grande and then Isla Linton. The wind was mostly from the north at about 10kn but later increased to 15 – 18kn slightly W of N. We arrived at 1430 after a good sail in slight seas. We again anchored near Innforapenny who had come to Isla Linton hoping to get their alternator problems fixed.


Isla Grande and, to a lesser extent, Isla Linton is a weekend playground for the more affluent Panamanians. They tear up and down at very dangerous speeds with their jet skis. Often they come far too close to the anchored yachts. All the beaches are packed.